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Mold Expert Advice News Blog Questions and Answers
from Mold Consultants Phillip Fry and Divine Montero

If you have a mold question, please email it to mold experts Phillip Fry and Divine Montero at You can also send mold growth and water damage pictures (jpeg file format) along with your questions.

►"How To Use a Mold Fogging Machine" April 27, 2012
Air Mold Sampling Not As Effective as Visual and Smell Mold Detection 
April 26, 2012
Why Mold Growth Is Dangerous to Residents and Workers by mold expert Phillip Fry, April 25, 2012
Spreading Fungal Diseases Threaten Food Security and Biodiversity
April 14, 2012
Just one person in a room adds 37 million bacteria to the air every hour March 29, 2012

Q. Nov. 24, 2012. My husband and I re-did our entire bathroom in August.  We noticed early that there was a particular area of the tub that water pooled after showers.  We would wipe down the walls and sill of the tub after every shower but did not realize this procedure was not solving the water pooling as an hour or two later, more condensation would come down off of the walls and pool again.  We noticed a small discolored spot on the grout line where the tub meets the tile (where the water was pooling).  The spot is slightly darker than the grout and I suspected that there was something wrong with the grout our contractor used on the area.  After a week or so, the dark areas have spread, and the grout is now mushy and chipping off the wall where that pooling of water occurs.  We have called our contractor, who has told us that the tub was probably defective, however my gut tells me the tub was installed wrong and that is why the water pools in that area.  We have also asked other contractors and now understand that whatever grout mixture he used was not sufficient for that area of the tub!  Nonetheless, I am concerned that the darker areas forming are mold.  My daughter has had cold symptoms for about a month now (she is 1 1/2) and I do not know if the amount of mold we have accumulated (if it is indeed mold) could be the cause.  Like I said, the amount of mold does not seem incredible, but visibly is spreading.  My husband wants to start ripping out the grout tomorrow, and I agree, but not sure if the removal of the grout is enough????  We obviously need to address the water pooling issue and probably rip out the tile that immediately meets the tub.  While we wait for that process to happen (the ripping up of the tub), what can I do to clean the tiles that meet that area? What would you recommend for our situation?  Like I said: I do not believe our issue is "infestation" like so many of your customers probably have.  This is a new issue and only began when we re-did our bathroom and the water pooling began.
A. One real possibility is that water is getting into the inside of the wall behind the tile. Your idea of replacing the grout and the bottom row of tiles is excellent. Use grout to which you have added waterproofing compound. When you take off the bottom row of tiles, cut inspection holes in various points in the now exposed drywall backing of the removed tiles to look for mold growth inside the cut out drywall pieces and on the backside of the cut out pieces. Use a strong flash light to look carefully in all directions inside the wall through the cut out areas for mold growth. You can also use a moisture meter to scan the entire surface of the bathroom floor and walls to find hidden moisture problems. Take steps to reduce bathroom humidity such as making sure your bathroom exhaust fan directly vents to the outside and not to inside a wall or ceiling. Run the exhaust fan during showers and baths. After showering, have a squeegee in the bathtub area to squeegee off the water on the tiles. If I can be of further help, please email me. Best wishes, Phillip Fry, moldconsultant, Certified Environmental Hygienist, Certified Mold Inspector, and Certified Mold Remediator

Ozone Generator Questions Aug. 23, 2012, from a Hong Kong Buyer of the high ozone volume Ozone Blaster

To use ozone on sofas: I can clean the outer fabric but, how to clean the inside? I hope I can do it with the blaster?! If not possible to make the ozone go inside the fibers, what can I do?  I hope I do not have to throw it away because very expensive. I have smelled and it is not smelly.

A. First make sure the sofa is away from the wall so that the ozone can get to all surfaces. Move the ozone generator several times around the sofa. Also turn the sofa on its back so you can get ozone to the back side. While the sofa is on its back side, cut holes in the bottom side covering fabric big enough to insert the ozone machine hose deep into the sofa to inject massive amounts (at least one hour of treatment) into the interior of the sofa. After a thorough ozone treatment, use a hand-held HEPA vacuum cleaner to thoroughly vacuum all surfaces three times: horizontally, vertically, and diagonally. Third, scrub the fabric with borax laundry detergent or boric acid powder dissolved into hot water. |

Q. What about a mattress? 
A. Do the same steps as explained above for a sofa. Be sure you treat top, bottom, and all sides of mattress and box spring.

Q. What about air cons? Is there any way to make the aircons filter (recently changed) clean with the ozone?
A. Remove the filters and then clean them both filter sides with a HEPA vacuum cleaner (do the same three way treatment horizontally, vertically, and diagonally). While the filters are removed, use boric acid powder dissolved into hot water to scrub all areas inside the air con distribution register. Then, use the hose attachment of the ozone generator to inject at least 15 minutes worth of ozone treatment into the inside of each air con air supply register, plus one hour into the return air supply of a central air con system (with the system running simultaneously on fan ventilation).

Q. And what about the exhaust fans in the bathrooms, kitchen, and laundry room?
A. Remove the grill register, clean out the insides of the exhaust fan duct by scrubbing with boric acid powder or Tim-Bor, and then use the ozone generator hose to supply at least 15 minutes of ozone into each exhaust fan duct.

Q. For the clothes: how do I need to apply the ozone? Is it like leaving the clothes on the hangers while the ozone goes through the air of the room or it is more like deeply working on the item one by one?
A. Use both of your ideas for good ozone penetration of clothes with a mold smell or possible deposited/landed mold spores that donít yet cause mold smells. After ozone treatment, wash and scrub the clothes with mold-removing borax laundry detergent.

Q.  Can I use the ozone for the leather items such handbags and coats? Will make the ozone disappear the odour?
A. Yes, but make sure you get ozone treatment to all sides/insides of handbags and coats. Then scrub with borax laundry detergent.

Q.  Finally: I have some clothes from my daughter which smell of mold but do not show any mold growth on the surface: in this case where the mold did not show yet: do I need to bring these pieces to dry cleaning or I can use the ozone treatment only. These clothes I refer are only princess disguises  and Dry Cleaning will cost me 20 US $ each and I do not want to spend so much money on this.
A. Ozone treatment should take care of the mold smell and kill landed deposited mold spores without the need for dry cleaning.

June 20, 2012. Another family member moved into an apartment and it had mold infesting pretty much everything.  I visited them due to their concerns for their disabled son just to see how his seizures were and if they were like my daughterís.  No mention of mold, not until I got there and saw what I saw. The young man has been hospitalized twice. So, my question and this might be weird.  But, I had always wanted to try something just to see what would happen.  The mom had severe reactions to the apartment.  So, I had her blow her nose into one of the mold test kit petri dishes.  The mold test kit grew mold colonies.  Is that weird? They got out of the apartment immediately, I had my home inspector guy go to the apartment and he was sick for the entire day after he the carpet, walls, windows, just everywhere.  They've lost everything. Thank God their son is getting better.  They are going to the same doctors we use and are testing for allergies to mold and being in the extremely moldy apartment didn't help his health.
A. Living or working in mold can easily cause mold to grow in one's sinus cavities. The famous Mayo Clinic did a research medical study of chronic sinusitis and discovered that over 90% of chronic sinus problems are caused from living or working in a moldy environment. Blowing an occupant's nose into a mold petri lab dish to watch for possible mold growth is a great idea on your part. Your thinking is clear and correct to mold test what comes out of a resident's nose!!! Thanks for your great insight that I will post on the net to help other mold victims. Your friends are so lucky to have you as a friend to help them discover that they were living in a mold hell. Best wishes, mold consultant Phillip Fry, Certified Environmental Hygienist, Certified Mold Inspector, and Certified Mold Remediator.

Q. (May 24, 2012) How can I remove mold from my house's central air conditioning system?
 A. Here are several effective do-it-yourself steps to take to get rid of mold growth problems inside air con equipment and ducts.  First, remove each heating/cooling/air conditioning  (HVAC) duct register grill and thoroughly clean the register and inside the duct as far as you can reach with a HEPA vacuum cleaner and then scrubbing with boric acid powder mix (available at Mold Mart). Wear a N-95 breathing mask, disposable vinyl gloves, disposable painterís coveralls and cap, and eye goggles during cleaning. Second, with all of the registers removed and the HVAC off, inject large amounts of ozone gas into each register (one at a time) using the hose of the EnviroFry home model ozone generator. Third, use the ozone blaster to inject large amounts of ozone into the fresh air intake duct of your HVAC while the system is running on ventilation (no cooling or heating). Fourth, use a mold fogging machine (Mold Mart) to do mold fogging of boric acid powder mix throughout your air con equipment and ducts. The dried white boric crystals remaining after drying are also a great mold preventative. If I can be of further help, please email me---Phillip Fry, Certified Environmental Hygienist, Certified Mold Inspector, and Certified Mold Remediator

Q, May 5, 2012. We are interested in buying a home that has what seems to be a slight mold problem in the basement that is finished smells musty for starters. There are a few problem areas the laundry area has some mold around the first foot or so around the bottom of the drywall had to remove it to repair water line behind it and had about the same amount on the inside probably the worst room in the basement. The other side of the basement in a corner a few spots about the size of a small plate I am assuming the same thing behind that drywall looks black in color. Small spotting on the ceiling threw out basement and on window molding in the basement and on the main floor. There is also some quarter size spots behind where the dishwasher sits and a problem in the attic one side of the roof looks brand new the other has some staining peek vent is offset so one side does not vent properly. This is a very nice home a foreclosure that has been closed up for almost two years is it wise to purchase a home that shows this kind of problem? It looks minor to me but reading up on your site makes me think that I am seeing a little on every floor that the whole house is somewhat contaminated. The ozone machine what square footage does each one cover and can you do a whole level or do you do one room at a time. The whole house has new carpet will it help that if it is affected?
A. For your family's health and for the protection of your hard-earned money, have the house thoroughly mold inspected and mold tested by a Certified Mold Inspector, whose experienced eyes and high-tech mold inspection and testing gear can help determine if there is a serious mold problem or not. In what state and city is the property located? You should read the extensive information available about home mold inspection techniques at Building Mold Inspection. The musty smell in the basement and the physical mold growth you see in the basement tell you that there is a mold problem that might be simply the result of the house being closed up for two years (inadequate ventilation is conducive to mold growth), or that there is a more serious problem such as water penetration into the basement through the basement walls. If you buy the house, the drywall needs to be removed and replaced in at least two feet in all directions BEYOND the areas of mold growth. Once the drywall has been removed, you can really know the extent of the mold problem in those affected basement areas. You might need to do mold removal and remediation behind the removed drywall areas. The attic needs to be very thoroughly mold inspected, including lifting up and inspecting beneath all insulation batts.  As far as mold remediation, the ozone generator produces extreme high volumes of ozone that can treat the entire house, one room or area at a time. You can buy the home model Bio3Blaster at Ozone Generator. Please read the ten steps for safe and effective mold remediation. If I can be of further help, please email me.----Phillip Fry, mold consultant and Certified Environmental Hygienist

Q. April 30, 2012. So in our situation, we had mold-infested drywall collapse in our upstairs ceiling after it had been weakened from at least 6 months of rain. The leaks were was occurring in the 2 locations that collapsed and my landlord is adamant that he has done his duty as a landlord by having the mold in those 2 areas removed and the two adjoining rooms cleaned by professionals. My question is: How could the mold have traveled from those 2 areas and grow in other parts of the attic and house if the leaks were only in 2 areas?  Could spores from those areas travel through the air on their own or through HVAC system and land on a surface that is in a dark & cool place, but without water, and start growing? I guess I need to know how to explain that even though the mold was eventually cleaned up in those 2 areas, it had been growing there for months and "here is the way that it could have spread..."
A. Airborne mold spores can travel easily in the air currents and also through the outgoing air of your air conditioning equipment and ducts (both of which are extremely likely to be now mold infested and active mold factories). You can test for air con system mold infestation by attaching an opened mold test kit (with the sticky side facing outward air flow from each duct register) attached to the outside of each HVAC duct register. Run then run the HVAC on fan ventilation for 10 minutes. Then remove, close, and seal the mold test kits and watch for mold growth over 7 days and/or send to our mold lab for mold species identification and quantification. In Texas, the high humidity can enable the airborne mold spores to grow almost anywhere.  Second, mold can grow internally through and on walls, ceilings, and floors.  You would be helped big-time if you read all five of my mold advice ebooks, available for only $49 at You might also sign up for my 60 days of unlimited mold advice by email for only $99 on Mold Mart. In service, Phillip Fry, mold expert, Certified Environmental Hygienist, Certified Mold Inspector, and Certified Mold Remediator

Q. April 12, 2012. I found you via internet while looking for someone to help us. I opened my  cellar this morning to find it filled with mold. We need help and some idea as to the cost in cleaning this up ASAP.  The mold as you can see is all over the boxes and dry wall ceiling and the size of the cellar is pretty small, (about 10 sq feet?)
                                                              Picture of advanced basement mold growth in Socorro, New Mexico.
      A. The mold growth depicted in your excellent pictures is so overwhelming---it is everywhere in your cellar, totally covering your cellar ceiling and walls. It is NOT safe for you or anyone to enter that cellar without proper protective gear, a point discussed in detail in the ten steps for safe and effective mold remediation. Wearing proper mold protective gear, your first step is to discard all of the materials stored in that cellar. The stored items appear to be only of small value and the items are overwhelming mold-infested and beyond saving. Trash can mold remediation is one of the most effective and least costly mold remediation alternatives. Your next step should be to use a hand-pumped garden sprayer (about $40 at a hardware or home improvement store) to spray a heavy wet coating of boric acid powder mix on the ceiling and walls. After that first spraying has dried, do it one more time.  Please read the mix and use directions for boric acid on the boric page of When the second spraying is dried, you need to scrape of all of the massive mold growth and bag it into trash bags for disposal. Then spray a third spraying of boric acid on the mold-cleaned walls and ceiling.  Obviously, there is a big water problem in your cellar that enables such massive, total mold growth. Check carefully for water leaks and water seepage into the cellar from the walls and floor.  You should consider putting a one inch or thicker new layer of concrete on the ceiling and walls, with that new coating containing large amounts of waterproofing compound. You must find and fix the water problems to get rid of the cellar mold problems. You need to also be concerned about airborne mold spores traveling form the cellar upwards into the rest of your house in air currents. The ceiling looks to be concrete. If it is a wood ceiling, you are in trouble because the ceiling mold can easily grow upwards through the wood ceiling into the rest of the house above the cellar.  If you have follow up mold remediation questions, I am here to help you. In service, Phillip Fry, Certified Environmental Hygienist, Certified Mold Inspector, and Certified Mold Remediator

Q. March 19, 2012. Can mold be detected with infrared camera behind sheetrock? I ask because there is a mold smell in my house but no signs of humidity nor mold anywhere. We have tried different things for two years trying to eliminate the smell.
A. Infrared can only inform about wetness in walls (a sign of likely mold infestation in such wet spots) and NOT actual internal wall or ceiling mold growth, but much less expensive than infrared to find hidden moisture is to scan all ceilings and walls with a good quality moisture meter, which costs only a few hundred dollars compared to $7,000 to $15,000 for an infrared inspection camera.  When you smell mold, there IS a mold problem somewhere, of course. A good place to begin your search is to do mold testing of the outward air flow from your home's heating/cooling duct registers. If there is a mold problem in your home, airborne mold spores will be sucked into the heating/cooling equipment and ducts, which are great places for mold growth to flourish because of the higher humidity and deposited dust/dirt (mold food) in your heating/cooling system.  Another place to check is to go up into your attic and use a strong flashlight to inspect it carefully for any signs of roof leaks (such as water stains) and resulting mold growth.  Roof leaks are a common problem, and roof leak water then goes down into the insides of your ceilings and walls to create hidden mold growth.  You would be helped big-time if you read my in depth mold advice ebook Do It Best Yourself Mold Inspection, Testing, Remediation, and Prevention, for only $15 for email attachment delivery to you from  If I can be of further help, please write me. Best wishes, Phillip Fry, mold consultant, Certified Environmental Hygienist, Certified Mold Inspector, and Certified Mold Remediator

Q. March 17, 2012. I live in the Bahamas and am having terrible health issues in my house from what I believe is mold in my a/c.  We have two units, one in the bedroom and one in the living areas.  The living areas tested high for penicillium mold, the a/c smells awful, so bad that I can hardly stand to have it on.  Myself and my kids are suffering with constant nasal and respiratory problems. The problem is no one seems to be able to locate any mold and I know that's what it is.  I've had the handler cleaned but maybe the guy just isn't qualified to deal with this situation.  I'm at the point where I want to replace everything including ducts if I have to.  We have the soft ducts so I don't think it's possible to clean them.  I'm told by several persons who inspected that there is no visible mold in the attic. What would you suggest we do?  If we buy another unit will that just get contaminated too? Any advice you can give would be appreciated.
A.  The high humidity in the Bahamas is the most like cause of the moldy air con units. In addition, air con equipment and ducts are fertile grounds for mold infestation growth because of the naturally wet environment inside the equipment and ducts.  You should yourself using your good sense of smell, good eyes, and a strong flashlight inspect inside the attic to see if there are ANY roof leaks because a roof leak will result in hidden mold growth in your home's ceilings, walls, and air con equipment and ducts.  You should also check all of your plumbing for any possible plumbing leaks.  Don't replace your air system---instead fix the mold problem.  Since you have mold-infested air conditioning, you will also have mold cross contamination everywhere inside your home because the air con air flow will be continually distributing airborne mold spores to land everywhere in your home and on its possessions. Your first step should be the sign up for my 60 days of unlimited email mold advice for only $99 at  Your second step should be to order one home unit Bio3Blaster high ozone generator to do heavy ozone treatment inside your air con equipment, attic, and in all other areas of your house. Repeat the ozone treatment of the air equipment and ducts every three months. The plug is American style and generator is 110 V, and I don't know the plug type and voltage in the Bahamas. You might need to use a plug adapter and to use a step down transformer 220 v to 100 volt if the Bahamas uses 220 volt rather than the 110 volt used in USA and by the ozone generator.   Read about ozone treatment and the ozone generator.  Be sure to read the use and safety instructions accessed from a link from that page. Be sure to watch all of the YouTube ozone video links on the above page. Your third step should be to use boric acid powder mixed in hot water to dissolve it to scrub down all ceilings, walls, floors and furnishings to get rid of landed/deposited mold spores. Your fourth step should be to use a mold fogging with boric acid powder.  Visit Mold Fogging Machine. You can buy boric at  If you want to order the ozone generator and/or the boric acid powder, let me know so I can find out the US post office priority mail shipping cost to deliver both items to you in the Bahamas. Your fifth step should be to use a fogging machine to fog boric acid powder mix into your air con equipment and ducts to kill existing mold not killed by the ozone generator and to leave a powdery coating inside the equipment and ducts to help prevent future mold growth.  Your sixth step is to buy several programmable dehumidifiers from the States to keep your indoor humidity below the 70% threshold level that enables mold to grow quite well from high humidity alone.  Please email me your followup mold remediation questions. In service, Phillip Fry, mold expert, Certified Environmental Hygienist, Certified Mold Inspector, and Certified Mold Remediator 

Q. March 16, 2012, from Hong Kong. I have mold that even if I clean it, it comes back quickly. I suspect there is mould in the walls of our apartment. I'm afraid I don't have any visible mould picture to show you now as I just cleaned. But it's white and light green moss-like, and grows on the back side of all our closets, our wooden blinds and even by the bedside. Many of our shoes we had to throw away as this "spotted" mold kept spreading and coming back. We are currently using a dehumidifier, but seems not to be enough. I have a very good sense of smell, and can immediately notice any raised level of mold in our house. So I try to detect it so i can clean it. But my problem is to prevent it from coming back. I have been feeling very drained, and sometimes wake up feeling very fuzzy (brain cloud). Never had any history of asthma, but had a cough that lasted for over 3 months and could only be cured by antibiotics. Do you think it could be related to the mould?
A. Yes, it is likely that the recurring mold is from mold growth inside the walls, especially if the walls are made of wood or have a drywall outer surface. Another likely problem is that your air con units are probably mold infested. Each hour you operate the moldy air con throws huge numbers of airborne mold spores into the air to mold cross contaminate the entire interior of your apartment, your furnishings, and the insides of your lungs for mold health problems. Find out if your landlord is willing to pay for mold inspection and any needed mold remediation.  Your health problems are typical mold health problems. The brain cloud feeling may mean that your brain is being adversely affected (permanently brain damage) from exposure to Stachybotrys mold. You should be seeking medical help as well as moving immediately to a mold safe place to live. The white mold is likely to be health damaging Cladosporium. The green mold is likely the combination of Aspergillus and Penicillium, the second and third most dangerous molds. You ought to read several of my mold advice ebooks: (1) Mold Health Guide; and (2) Do It Best Yourself Mold Inspection, Testing, Remediation, and Prevention, US $15 each for email attachment delivery to you from If I can be of further help, please email me. Thanks, Phillip Fry, mold consultant, Certified Environmental Hygienist, Certified Mold Inspector, and Certified Mold Remediator

Q. March 11, 2012. Thank you again for all your very detailed precise information. Everything makes sense. My wife and I sort of freaked out with the furniture though. We have couches, beds and such that should not get wet for fear of ruining the better pieces, and we are very concerned about that. Would it be better to fog those items so maybe they become a little damp. On a personal note I have an injured shoulder and the fogging of each item would be a lot easier on my shoulder at this time. The HEPA vacuum was also a concern. At this point in time I am out of work because of the shoulder injury. I bought the blaster since I thought it made the most sense for our problem now and can be used in the future. Is there another alternative to using a HEPA vacuum? If not is there an inexpensive brand to buy. In the meantime I will try to borrow something but off hand I don't know anyone with a HEPA. I apologize for all the questions. My intent is to do this right but I am getting a lot of pressure from my wife since she thinks I am going a little overboard on this. But my biggest fear is to have someone tell us we cannot sell our house due to mold.
A. Please show this email to your wife to read. You are both very wise to take care of the mold problem correctly for the benefit of your own family's health while you are still living in the house and so that you can sell the home without any problems. Please ask your wife to read all about mold health problems on the home page of Mold Inspector and/or read my in depth ebook Mold Health Guide, just $15 for email attachment delivery to you from   Many smart buyers today will not buy any house or other building without first having it mold inspected and tested. One of the worst nightmares for a home buyer is to get sick from moving into a moldy house and then to have to spend thousands of dollars or tens of thousands of dollars for mold remediation. Moldy house sales can cause lawsuits against the seller, realtor, and real estate agent. Take care of the problem now, as you are doing!!! In answer to your good questions: 1. A good quality, hand-held HEPA vacuum can be bought for $30 to $60 at Wal-Mart, Target, home improvement store, appliance store, etc.  Be sure to buy a few extra HEPA filters. You will know when the HEPA filter is too full of captured dust and mold particles when it starts to lose vacuuming strength---or change preventively after maybe 40 hours of use. 2. As an alternative to buying a fogging machine, you can do spraying of the mold removing chemical with a hand-pumped garden sprayer, or small electric sprayer, both low cost at a hardware or home improvement store.  3. For the expensive furniture, HEPA vacuuming three ways on all surfaces (horizontal, vertical and diagonal directions while vacuuming) plus ozone generator treatment of the entire room containing the furniture is sufficient is there is no visible mold growth on the furniture. 4. In rooms with expensive furniture and wherein there is no visible mold, you can eliminate the fogging or spraying---just do HEPA vacuuming of all furniture and furnishings, walls, and floors, followed by ozone blasting. 5. If you were to do fogging or spraying in a room with expensive furniture, you can either first remove the furniture (hard with your shoulder problem) or cover it (including taping for secure fit) with clear plastic sheeting. How close are you to bigger cities (with lots of mold customers)? Are you within a 2 to 3 hour drive of at least several hundred thousand people?  The reason I ask is that you can use your ozone generator to make lots of money since you don't have a job currently (a common problem today, unfortunately). The ozone machine is big money maker in helping other people, including to kill mold growth inside heating/cooling equipment and ducts. You can be trained and certified as a Certified Mold Inspector (CMI) and Certified Mold Remediator (CMR) for only $299 each (start with CMI) or $498 with discounted combination price. Learn more about distance training to be trained and certified at You need at least one to two weeks of intensive study of the study materials provided to you to pass the written exam done in the comfort of your home at your own pace using your reference materials "open book" style to prepare your best exam answers.  In service, Phillip Fry, mold consultant

March 10, 2012. Hi Phillip, First of all thanks for getting back so quick and for your detailed response. Today I plan on ordering the Bio3Blaster but I have a couple of remaining questions: There is a very thin carpet glued to the basement floor. Should I blast the basement first to keep the spores down, then remove the carpet then scrub the floor with the mold stat and then blast it again? Or should I remove the carpet first? The furniture in the basement is junk so I will throw that out, Do i need to do anything with the upstairs furniture, other than blast the room, do I? God I hope not. There is insulation in the crawl space glued to walls. Do I need to remove that? 
A. Thanks for your purchase of the powerful EnviroFry ozone generator. Read carefully the use and ozone generator safety instructions.  If you have any questions, I am here to help you.  In answer to your questions: 1. Please read the ten steps for safe and effective mold remediation. You need to wear the recommended charcoal-based filter while removing or transferring the ozone generator. At all other times during the mold remediation wear at least a 3M brand N-95 breathing mask or 3M brand full face respirator with organic filters (both items are available at Home Depot or Lowe's).  2. Do an initial one hour (or more if the basement is large) ozone treatment in each area of the basement before removing and discarding the glued down carpeting. 3. Once you have used a mold cleaner to remove any visible basement mold growth, then do another ozone treatment of the basement. 4. When removing the carpeting, cut it into small sections to put into 6 mil thick garbage bags. Seal the bags before carrying the bags outside to put into your trash pickup. 5. Use do discard the inexpensive furniture. Throwing away mold-infested items is often the cheapest and best mold remediation step. 6. For furniture and household items upstairs that don't have any visible mold growth, use a HEPA vacuum cleaner to thoroughly vacuum all surfaces (including the bottom and back) of all furniture and other possessions, and then scrub down the vacuumed surfaces with your mold cleaner solution. 7. As to the glued-on crawl space insulation, cut out a few small test sections of the insulation to examine the backside of the samples for evidence of mold growth either on the samples themselves or the wall behind the sampled areas. If there is no mold growth on the back side of the cut out sample or behind the samples, you do NOT need to remove the insulation prior to ozone blasting. If the insulation has no mold growth on either the outside surface or on its backside, just leave the glued on insulation in place. Besides ozone blasting of the crawl space, do fogging of the crawl space (and basement and attic) with your mold cleaner. Visit Mold Fogging Machine. Please email me any follow up questions you may have. In service, Phillip Fry, mold expert

Q. March 9, 2012. I am trying to fix up my house for sale and over the years we have had some incredible storms (I live in a suburb of Chicago). At first my main problem was that during an extreme storm my basement window would fill up and the water would come through the window well ,so even though my sump pump was keeping up I still got water in the basement. I eventually had Perma-seal come and they installed a PVC drain to go directly into the sump pump. We thought our problem was solved but we had a very bad storm and the sump pump couldn't keep up, So we had our yard re- graded with drain tiles to hopefully channel the water away from the foundation. We don't know if that took care of the problem but we hope and pray it did. So the bottom line is we have some mold. Each time I experienced water I tried to clean everything up and air it out but none the less I have some mold. We have coverage on our insurance for mold cleanup, but was wondering how that would effect the sale of the house if they see there has been a mold remediation company come in? If it affects the sale negatively I was thinking about doing it myself with one of your blasters. It doesn't smell extremely bad but I can see some mold on the concrete and there is some on the wood. To sum up my questions: In your opinion should I have a company come out or try to do it myself? How could using a remediation company affect the sale of my home? Should I use boric acid powder as a mold cleaner and for mold fogging? With the use of the Blaster do you still need to scrub down every area that has mold or will the blaster take care of unseen, unscrubbed mold? Do you suggest using a fogger first and if so do you still need to scrub everything?
     A.  You are wise to get rid of the mold problems before you offer your house for sale, as you have decided to do. Read your insurance policy very carefully because most policies exclude coverage for mold unless the mold is a direct result of an insurable accident such as a flood, weather storm or fire. If you file a mold claim, whether or not it ever gets paid, you and your property address will both be entered into the insurance industry claims database C.L.U.E. that could raise your future insurance cost and make your house hard to sell (because smart buyers check the C.L.U.E. data base about specific properties they are considering to buy.  My suggestion is that you do the mold remediation yourself to get the job done right and at an affordable price.  Most mold remediators fail to find all of the mold hidden inside walls, ceilings, floors, heating/cooling equipment and ducts, basement, crawl space, and attic. In addition, mold contractors take unfortunate shortcuts and use poorly trained and supervised workers. Your first step is to use the home model EnviroFry ozone generator to inject high ozone for at least one hour in each area of your house, starting with the basement and including all rooms, attic and HVAC (heating, ventilating, and air conditioning) equipment and ducts.  You will also do another ozone generator treatment after you have done all of the next mold remediation steps.  Whenever you see visible mold, get rid of it with the boric acid powder mix and a wire brush attachment to a grinder, hand-held wire brush, and hand-held hard bristle scrubber. Then use the the boric mix to wash down all walls, floors, and house contents such as furniture. You can also use a fogging machine to fog boric mix in the basement, attic, and elsewhere in your home. If I can be of further help, please email me. Best wishes, Phillip Fry, mold consultant, Certified Environmental Hygienist, Certified Mold Inspector, and Certified Mold Remediator.

     Q. March 3, 2012. I am considering purchasing a house in north Georgia (Jasper area) which has been damaged by water from the inside.  I suspect the previous tenants sabotaged the house on being evicted.  The house is now in foreclosure and the bank is trying to get rid of it with an attempt at remediation of the mold on an "as is" basis with no disclosures. I have inspected the house and can't smell nor see any evidence of mold.  All sheet rock walls in the basement have been removed and I assume have been treated, HVAC ducts removed, and some areas in the kitchen and master bath have had the sheet rock removed.  Metal air outlets to each room have been taped shut and treated.  There has been a dehumidifier running in the basement for several weeks.  The main floor has oak flooring which is now "cupped up", so that area has been wet.  Flooring remains and could be sanded and refinished, if it does not have to be removed. My BIG question is :  How can I be 100% sure that the problem has in fact been taken care of and that there will be no return of mold?  Of course, the lender will offer no guarantee.  I do plan to have a mold inspector come in during the due diligence period and verify that there is no problem before committing to buy.  Please give me an idea of what the cost of this would be.
A. Most mold remediation jobs fail to find and to get rid of all of the mold that is often hidden inside walls, ceilings, attic, basement, crawl space, and heating/cooling equipment and ducts. You can safely presume that the mold remediation job was poorly done because of of that reason plus mold remediation shortcuts taken and improper mold employee training and supervision, plus ineffective mold remediation procedures.  At a minimum, you should have a local mold inspector, environmental hygienist, or industrial hygienist use a fiber optics inspection device to inspect inside a large number of one inch entry holes through out the walls and ceilings to determine if there is a hidden mold problem therein. Because it is not likely that the lender will permit the drilling of such inspection holes, you are not going to be able to know the truth about mold hidden therein.  The inspector or hygienist should also mold test the air of each room and the outward air flow from each heating/cooling duct register for the possible presence of elevated levels of airborne mold spores. Expect to spend at least one thousand dollars upward for such comprehensive mold inspection and testing. The water-damaged, cupped floor boards need to be replaced. When you remove the floor boards for replacement, expect to find mold growth beneath the floor boards.  Even if you can find and fix all of the hidden mold problems, you would still be the owner of a house with a bad mold history that you would have to disclose to any prospective future buyer of your home---thus making your home hard to sell unless you were to sell it a big discount. You would be helped big time if you read my in depth mold advice ebook Do It Best Yourself Mold Inspection, Testing, Remediation, and Prevention, only $15 for email attachment delivery to you from If you have follow up questions, I am here to help you. In service, Phillip Fry, mold expert, Certified Environmental Hygienist, Certified Mold Inspector, and Certified Mold Remediator

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